Where am I Wearing?: A Global Tour to the Countries, Factories, and People That Make Our Clothes

The globalization of the American apparel industry is central to Where Am I Wearing? Timmerman emphasizes that the US’s outsourcing of garment production reflects its transformation from a “developing” to a “developed” country. Throughout the book, he draws parallels between the economic status of the developing countries he visits and the processes of development that the US underwent before becoming a global powerhouse. He demonstrates that the trajectory of the American apparel industry reflects broader trends in industrialization and international trade.

The American textile and garment industry began modestly in the late 18th century, primarily focusing on the small-scale production of textiles such as wool and cotton. Most of the production was done domestically in homes or small workshops using traditional methods like spinning wheels and hand looms. However, the Industrial Revolution transformed the industry as technological advances led to mechanized production techniques. In 1793, Eli Whitney's invention of the cotton gin significantly increased the efficiency of cotton processing, making it more profitable to produce. This innovation fueled the expansion of cotton cultivation in the Southern states (which was largely carried out by an enslaved workforce), consequently increasing the demand for textile manufacturing in the North. Many textile mills were established, particularly in New England, where abundant water resources were available to power machinery. Furthermore, Francis Cabot Lowell developed the power loom and the “Lowell System,” whereby large textile mills undertook all stages of production, from spinning to weaving. Throughout the 19th century, the textile industry expanded rapidly, and mills were established in many American states. They employed predominantly young, unmarried women from rural areas, providing accommodation in company-owned boarding houses. 

Increased textile production led to accompanying expansion in the American apparel industry, and the invention of the sewing machine increased the manufacturing process’s volume and speed. New York and Chicago became hubs of garment manufacturing, attracting large numbers of young, female, Jewish and Italian immigrants seeking employment. These developments led to the emergence of American “sweatshops.” Daniel Soyer draws attention to the inextricable link between industrialization and sweatshops, observing, “[T]he sweatshop problem has been deeply rooted in the structure of the garment industry since its earliest days” (Soyer, Daniel. “Garment Sweatshops, Then and Now.” New Labor Forum, 1999, no. 4, p. 35). The industry’s rapid expansion entailed the mistreatment and exploitation of its workers. 

American sweatshops were typically housed in overcrowded, dust-filled buildings with inadequate ventilation and lighting. Workdays often spanned 12 to 16 hours or more with minimal breaks, and wages frequently failed to meet basic needs. Many garment workers were paid piece rates, which incentivized working at a breakneck pace to produce as many garments as possible. Sweatshop owners and managers frequently employed tactics such as wage theft, arbitrary fines for minor infractions, and withholding wages as leverage to keep workers compliant. Safety regulations were virtually non-existent, leading to accidents and injuries. Fires were also a constant threat due to overcrowded and poorly maintained buildings and the widespread use of flammable materials like cotton. In Where Am I Wearing? Timmerman highlights this issue, describing the 1911 fire at the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in New York City, which killed 46 garment workers. Meanwhile, business owners distanced themselves from the poor treatment of their workers by employing contractors and subcontractors to fulfill their production needs.

Economists such as Jeffery Sachs view the emergence of American sweatshops as an integral stage in the country’s economic development. In The End of Poverty (2005), Sachs points out that almost every wealthy nation has a history of exploitative employment practices because “[s]weatshops are the first rung on the ladder out of extreme poverty” (Sachs, Jeffery. The End of Poverty. Penguin, 2005, p. 11). In Where Am I Wearing? Timmerman explains how the mistreatment of American garment workers in the 19th century eventually led to organized strikes and protests demanding better wages, shorter hours, and improved working conditions. For example, the 1886 uprisings commemorated by Labor Day laid the groundwork for labor reforms to protect workers’ rights and improve workplace safety. The 1880s also marked an upsurge in consumer concern about the poor treatment of factory workers. Consequently, the National Consumers League (NCL) was formed in 1899. The NCL’s members believed that consumers must take an interest in manufacturing conditions and defend workers’ rights.

The mid-20th century entailed a seismic shift in the landscape of the American apparel industry. Rising labor costs and increased competition prompted many manufacturers to seek cheaper production alternatives overseas. This phenomenon, known as “offshoring,” led to the mass exodus of garment production from the United States to developing countries in Asia, Latin America, and other regions with lower labor costs. Consequently, as Timmerman’s book outlines, the garment makers of those countries suffer similar issues to 19th-century American workers. 

Throughout Where Am I Wearing? Timmerman draws attention to the parallels between the US’s industrial past and the present of countries like Bangladesh, Honduras, Cambodia, and China. Garment makers through the ages are typically young, female, and impoverished. Their pay is poor, and working hours are long. Safety is compromised, as illustrated in the frequency of fires in Bangladeshi factories. Timmerman also emphasizes that, as in 19th-century America, a chain of contractors and subcontractors leads to companies shirking responsibility for their manufacturing processes. While acknowledging economists’ arguments that the exploitation of garment workers plays a role in the economic growth of developing countries, Timmerman points out that this is a high price to pay for those directly affected.